Adventures in Asia: New Year's Eve Ft. Kochi Style

So many of you will want to know celebrating NYE in India was and my response would be it was f*&%#$ awesome! (sorry mom) But it really was great! It started off like any other day - wake up, yoga, shower, breakfast, walk around town, lunch - you know boring everyday things. But then I decided to be smart about my New Year's Eve, I was going to nap. I know it sounds crazy but hey I really don't stay up late anymore as being out at night as a girl in India is not the smartest thing so instead I get lots and lots of beauty rest! And in turn having the sleeping habits of a grandma. So I took a nice hour or so nap and then started to get ready, nails painted, mascara, lips done, hair brushed and styled! I was getting all dolled up as my dad would say.

After said putting on my face, Tanner and I walked outside and down the street only to realize the parade we were headed to was the next day. So we decided that we would go back the the home-stay, play some cards, have a few drinks, and wait until 9:00pm or so to head out. While playing our token game of Gin we heard crazy loud explosions that were really quite close so we ran onto the roof. What did we see, not bombs like we had assumed, no...fireworks. Now I know you guys are thinking "woohoo fireworks, what is so special about fireworks Molly?" But seriously in India there are no safety regulations so we were on top of a two story building and the fireworks were maybe peaking at the height of a five story building only a block away. Fireworks that close are just awesome. We sat up there and laughed and waited to see which building would be set of fire or what firework would explode too close to something else. But nothing happened. It did seem however that after a few minutes of very unsafe fireworks close to homes that someone decided to move the show a bit further away but still no higher off the ground. After the fireworks stopped we decided to go out and find more unsafe but totally epic firework displays. There had to be some somewhere!

On our way out of the home-stay, the owner, Emanual, told us that one of our mutual friends Benson Gamma (the owner of the place we stayed last time) wanted us to come have a drink with his family. We jovially strolled over to his house and was greeted by his wife, Shiny, offering us plum cake and homemade wine. We met the other guests and talked for a while, it was just nice being around people I knew well and knew cared about Tanner and I. After two drinks and lots of talking we left the house with another one of the guests, Toby, and set out to find his friends.

The three of us, two giant blondes with a super skinny white brunette walked the streets for an hour or more searching for his friends. With no luck we settled down into a restaurant for a drink a took a break from walking for a few minutes. After getting our second wind it was on to find the main attraction for the night. Earlier that day Tanner found out that in Ft. Kochi they burn a giant Santa at midnight and he really wanted to see it. Honestly, I really wanted to see it too. Burning Santa, the guy everyone was just so happy to see only days before....what is this? So we walked in search of Santa.

By the time we reached the waterfront it was very obvious that we weren't the only ones who wanted to watch Santa burn. The beach was filled with thousands and thousands of people. All of whom wanted to shake hands and wish us a Happy New Year! So we shook hands, Tanner danced, I protected my butt and chest from straying stranger hands and we made it down to the sand. On our way there I wished what I thought from far away was a very pretty lady dressed in an evening gown a Happy New Year, she turned around and it was not a she. He was a cross-dressing engineer who looked beautiful. He walked us to the sand and wished us well and went off to take photos with people. Sidenote: I find it quite strange that a culture doesn't accept homosexuality but finds cross dressing okay. More on that later.

So once we got to the sand Tanner led the way, I was holding his hand following behind him and then Toby was holding my hand and following up behind me. Safety first ladies, surround yourself with trustworthy men when out at night in India. We couldn't see anything but hordes and hordes of people and they were all flocking to something down the beach, like moths to a bug zapper. And of course we followed! I thought I saw what they were flocking to - a giant two story light box - only to look to my left and see the back of a huge 40 foot Santa beside it. Santa did not have any lights on him so he was almost like a big dark statue that was just standing on the boardwalk waiting for something. Tanner led us deeper into the crowd so we could see Santa's face. What fun is it watching Santa burn if you can't see his expression? He secured us a spot about 50 yards away from Santa just as a few fireworks went off directly overhead and by directly I meant less than 20 feet above us....super safe!

The crowd began whistling, screaming, hootin' and hollerin', more close range fireworks went off and then BAM! Santa's feet were ablaze with firecracker like noise and it sizzled all the up his body until BOOM!! Santa explodes! Yes explodes! A fireball basically exploded out of Santa's chest and then what was left of him started rapidly burning. The crowd surged backward afraid of the heat and fire. I was getting smashed by Indian men left and right. They were all backing away from the Santa and the fire. But the little pyromaniac in me said "Oooo pretty fire, warm fire, beautiful embers floating in the air. Must get closer." So as all the grown men stumbled back, I elbowed my way forward, pushing through the crowd to get closer. Closer. Closer. Until I was the only person standing underneath the falling embers and standing in an empty circle of sand that was moments ago occupied by hundreds of people. I felt alive. I felt like I was the only person on that beach and that the fire was just for me. I was alone, standing under a meteor shower of fire, arms outstretched, feeling the heat of the flames warm my body. It was unbelievably epic. I turned around and saw that Tanner was filming the whole thing! Sweet!

Once the other people realized that it was safe to be where I was a party ensued! Fireworks started going off (yet again only a few feet above our heads), men were Bollywood dancing, everyone was shaking hands, taking pictures, wishing everyone Happy New Year! It was utter chaos and brilliant to behold. Indian men started swarming around the three white people to get pictures and shake hands. It was a bit overwhelming we were starting to get surrounded by not only Indian men but the Indian police. Luckily the police were looking out for us and urged and guided us out of the chaos to a different section of the sand that was more peaceful. We held that ground for the next 10 minutes craning our necks back to take in all the fireworks above.

If you have never seen fireworks that close I urge you to do so. I know it may not be the safest thing to do but I can tell you that it is one of the most beautiful and breathtaking sights. Once again I was being showered by little flaming embers and I felt totally engulfed in the firework itself. It felt like the firework was going to embrace me with the light, that is how close they were. Amazing. Epic. Everything I could have hoped for.

After the fireworks stopped the chaos started to get even more chaotic if possible so we all decided it was safer if we left. We snaked our way out of the crowded beach and up to the boardwalk, down to the parking lots, and into the streets. The vibe was so much calmer there than the beach. We walked for a while and then Toby wanted to go visit this private house party. Turns out it was a backyard with terrible techno music, about five people, and no food or drinks so we left in search of food and better music.

On our way to find noms I spotted someone that I knew worked with GVI. I approached him and we chatted for a bit. I told him that Tanner and I were starting work with GVI on the 5th and haven't seen the house yet. He graciously said he would show us. After just a five minute walk we arrived at the GVI house and he rang the doorbell. It was 2:00am I didn't expect him to wake whoever was inside and felt a bit bad. But a 40 year old Indian man answered the door and invited us in. For the next hour or so we sat around a huge circular table, drank brandy, and discussed and debated Indian vs Western culture, the sexual repression of India, the treatment of women by Indian men, and everything in between. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful evening. I have to say it was the first time I have ever been able to speak freely and passionately to older Indian men. There were raised voices, sides being took, information pulled from experience and articles. It was the first intellectual conversation I have had with older Indian men. I did not feel like their equal, that would be too progressive, and they did talk over me on multiple occasions but I did feel like they saw my voice and opinion as a viable option and that is progress. Baby steps are better than no steps. I look forward to having more debates with them once I start work with GVI.

The night wrapped up with phone numbers being exchanged, hands being shook, and water, ice cream, and chips being bought on the walk home. All in all my New Year's Eve was amazing!

May 2014 bring even more incredible experiences to you and me alike!

<3 Molly